The dogs of Foncebadon are one of the worries I had before doing the walk. Shirley McClain describes them in her book. There is a part of the path that is rough, not well-travelled, with few refuge-spots and albergues. It seemed for many people the time leading from Rabanal to the Cruz de Ferro was ominous, dangerous. So I was stunned to get to Foncebadon and find a hippy store, with wisdom sayings from all over the world, and fresh-brewed self-serve coffee, not over-charged or fussed- over, and a box with "take or leAve " on it. I was freezing cold since before Rabanal, but had sent the jacket I brought ahead, to lighten the pack. Down in the valleys I didn't need it. But here, my hands were blue and cramped with cold. I went through that box, and found a thick good red turtleneck, and put it on-- it fit perfectly-- not even too-long sleeves! I started warming up, drinking coffee. I didn't have anything to leave in the box, but blessed the person who left that shirt. It saved my life several times we were very cold in the next days-- and I could still get the vest on over it, on top of the other liner and tank shirts. God bless the donor of the red shirt, and the kind laconic hippy with the little shop at the top of the mountain!
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