Burgos and Human evolution museum

Sitting in the sun in Burgos, eating Doner kebab-- a delicious Turkish taco of shaved rotisserie-cooked lamb, lettuce and tomatoes. This is the best bargain of great food we have found in Spain. The morning was spent in the fantastic museum of Human Evolution. It has a replica of Darwin's boat, the Beagle; and 5 floors of state-of-the-art displays of the archeological findings of earliest humans. There were interactive learning modules of the brain- getting inside it!; and discoveries from the nearby dig at Atapuerca. Miraculously, we were given a ride by a van from this museum:, and the driver, from Rumania, told us about this fantastic new educational experience. We saw the "Elvis" pelvis, early tools, evolution of bones and systems in the body, models of early hominids, graphics of cave paintings from 10k years ago, and data about the last million years. All was so beautifully displayed for teaching, and there were 3 classes of students there to learn. The docents were fantastically engaging teachers. The building itself was architecturally stunning, and they gave us a pilgrim- price, very inexpensive to enter. But they didn't mention Teilhard de Chardin, although I felt him everywhere in this place-- seeing God's handiwork and tools in evolution.
The bus for Leon leaves at 5:30.
Last night we stayed in a wonderful pilgrim Albergue, called casa Emaus-- from the apostle's experience after the Resurrection. It was new, quiet, and lovely. There was a mass, and a blessing for pilgrims. The washtub was wonderful! The dinner with the other pilgrims was very special. The hostess Marie-noelle was warm and welcoming. There were a 71 yo Dutchman, a 50yo Spanish woman, and a young couple-- he walked from Paris, she met him in st Jean. We also met a man from Cameroon who lives here and is looking for work. It was the feast of st. Isidore the worker, and the prayers were for all workers, and fruitful harvests. There were 2 trout fishermen downtown fishing in the river-- we watched them from the bridge casting! The walk along the river is beautiful. The cathedral is fantastic, but shocking, in opulence and devotion to violent conquest. I can see why it would be very hard for Moslems or Latin Americans to come here. It makes me consider my own cultural smugness, and insensitivity.

Morning

I love early morning, and birdsong waking with sunlight. I love old houses with cool hardwood floors and open beam ceilings. We are in a palatial hotel in Villafranca de la Oca. (goose) there is a sword and finely wrought shield with knight etched in it on the wall. The stone walls are thick and cool, and a comfort after getting so dry, hot and dusty. Today we head into Burgos, the city of El CID. I don't care about the wars and battles, but am very interested in how people treat the Moroccan and Turkish people who have come here to work. The long history and social tensions between the cultures are currently being mulched as we move forward. The fields are meticulously farmed-- the red earth is deep and gorgeous here. Wheat and asparagus -- and vineyards. It is so beautiful, with patches of rapeseed-- bright yellow swaths in the green.

A night in a parish church

We Spent the night in a Parrish church Albergue in Logrono. They tried very hard to be sharing and welcoming in a very faith-inspired way. They offered free meal and space, being clear that it was offered, not forced. There was evening mass, and after dinner a blessing in the church by the pastor. The reading was printed in each language, and included psalm 102. Each group of pilgrims was given a part to read in our own language, and could read along with the others. It was respectful and generous, and well-attended and well-received. The pastor prayed that our outer pilgrimage would be blessed and accompanied by an inner pilgrimage as well, and that we be helped and protected on our way. At dinner, it was explained in each language that the Parrish was offering the meal as a way for us to get to know other pilgrims, enriching our experience. We were tight- packed, about 50 people. There were mats on the floor, and a hot shower. Most people slept pretty well. There was no apparent separation or distinction between bicyclists and walking pilgrims. I slept at the far end of the room, next to a big poster of "our lady of hope". The gospel at mass was the one where Jesus says " I call you my friends." He talks about loving each other because God loves us first, and mirroring the love of God. It was a good experience of Christianity, next to all the graphic bloody painful imagery and Gothic intensity of the churches along the way. Most of the pilgrims seem secular, but are interested and gracious, and willing to connect and share.

Walking in Navarre

Walked from Villamayor to Torres del Rio. Beautiful hills and slopes of early wheat-- luscious green, with poppies and daisies in the hedgerows. Overcast, slight breeze. Walked from7:30 to 2 pm-- worn out now. At Internet cafe. Will take bus to Logrono. Last night hiked to castle of Sancho the strong: one of most invincible fortresses In 9th century-- 360 degree view of lush valley. Birdsong. Remembering songs of my childhood. Andy is being patient and helpful with me: two days ago we got lost and confused-- thank God for cell phones--- finally found each other. I am so slow, it is hard for him to wait for me. People we talk with are like characters in the Canterbury tales!

Sore legs

Made it to Albergue in Zubiri. New and well-made place-- good mattresses, clean and neat, clothesline and deep sink for washing clothes. Today was like skiing with poles, on a narrow intermediate slope, but with rocks, mud and the feel of a riverbed. The scenery is breathtaking, it is green and lush, and rural. Andy went ahead and faster-- so I walked alone most of the day, and listened to Palestrina on the iPod. This made it joyful, and peaceful. There is no place to mail stuff ahead until Pamplona, tomorrow. Once I clear out my pack I can carry it again. Andy has carried my pack on top of his own both days. He is getting a lot of admiration and compliments, which offset my guilt. We were able to wash a few things today, and there is wi-fi here.

Crossing the mountains

Today we are climbing the mountains in the pay-Basque. It is green and beautiful, and drizzling. I couldn't stand more than two hours with the pack-- 11 kg now-- I can't say how it got so full and heavy. So at Hentto we stopped to rest and gasp for air-- and Andy took my pack on top of his pack--- probably 44 lbs now. I am wearing Debbie's poncho, but am wet with sweat underneath it. We made it to Orisson by 12:00, ate a great meal and rested. Andy got pork chops, I had marinated pork with roasted red peppers. Now we will head over the border and over the mountain to Roncevalles. Last night we stayed just outside of St Jean on the was to San Michel--- at Atzibia- hostess Marie Claire. Beautiful solid stone home, wood floors, quiet-- only us. Wind in the mountains, the feel of the alps. We got chocolate from a chocolatiers in Bayonne, near the cathedral. Great chocolate!! We ate some for dinner. Marie Claire fed us breakfast- orange juice, coffee and bread, jam and butter. we got going by 8 am. The stint to Roncevalles is 25 km-- arduous--- "climb every mountain". The clanging sheep bells on the hillsides are grand. The view is breathtakingly beautiful. Alpine. Thank you God, Kyrie Eleison, and Andy talked about doing a documentary on Teilhard de Chardin before we slept--
He told the French young people on the beach all about Teilhard's philosophical contribution.
I kept thinking of phrases in French--- my mind is reaching into old cupboards trying to pull out these words!!!
Next morning: gruelling afternoon from Orisson over the mountains-- exhausting--- til I was ready to lie down in the mud; the knees were tortured by the down-climb in mud, and uneven path-- and it rained. We got to Roncevalles at 8 pm-- 12 hrs after starting out. I cried with hysterical relief-- and Andy was still carrying my pack on top of his own.

The Camino De Santiago de Compostela: 2012

I am intending to occasionally update the blog from the Camino De Santiago De Compostela.   I won't have a lot of time to do email and I am trying to do it as a pilgrimage, going into a deeply meditative place.  SO please excuse the scarcity of material.  Please pray for me.  I will be praying for all of us who are pilgrims, who are wandering but not lost.  I believe we are deeply found in the I/Thou described best by Martin Buber.  I am not taking any books with me, except the journal.  I hope I can remember all the songs I want to be singing, and the things I am hoping to remember to think about.  I am especially going to be thinking about water, soil, air and light.  I am worried about the sacred resources of the Earth, and our stewardship of it.  I am also thinking about death and dying, and loss and aging.  I am carrying my mom and my aunt, who have been lifted up.  I am remembering so many people I have loved, who are on the other side-- Dad, Fr. Fallon, Nana, John Hale, my other relatives and friends.  And some patients.  I believe that the process of trying to become more whole, more coherent, matters.  So I offer that, as the first reflection.  With love, martina