Sitting in the sun in Burgos, eating Doner kebab-- a delicious Turkish taco of shaved rotisserie-cooked lamb, lettuce and tomatoes. This is the best bargain of great food we have found in Spain. The morning was spent in the fantastic museum of Human Evolution. It has a replica of Darwin's boat, the Beagle; and 5 floors of state-of-the-art displays of the archeological findings of earliest humans. There were interactive learning modules of the brain- getting inside it!; and discoveries from the nearby dig at Atapuerca. Miraculously, we were given a ride by a van from this museum:, and the driver, from Rumania, told us about this fantastic new educational experience. We saw the "Elvis" pelvis, early tools, evolution of bones and systems in the body, models of early hominids, graphics of cave paintings from 10k years ago, and data about the last million years. All was so beautifully displayed for teaching, and there were 3 classes of students there to learn. The docents were fantastically engaging teachers. The building itself was architecturally stunning, and they gave us a pilgrim- price, very inexpensive to enter. But they didn't mention Teilhard de Chardin, although I felt him everywhere in this place-- seeing God's handiwork and tools in evolution.
The bus for Leon leaves at 5:30.
Last night we stayed in a wonderful pilgrim Albergue, called casa Emaus-- from the apostle's experience after the Resurrection. It was new, quiet, and lovely. There was a mass, and a blessing for pilgrims. The washtub was wonderful! The dinner with the other pilgrims was very special. The hostess Marie-noelle was warm and welcoming. There were a 71 yo Dutchman, a 50yo Spanish woman, and a young couple-- he walked from Paris, she met him in st Jean. We also met a man from Cameroon who lives here and is looking for work. It was the feast of st. Isidore the worker, and the prayers were for all workers, and fruitful harvests. There were 2 trout fishermen downtown fishing in the river-- we watched them from the bridge casting! The walk along the river is beautiful. The cathedral is fantastic, but shocking, in opulence and devotion to violent conquest. I can see why it would be very hard for Moslems or Latin Americans to come here. It makes me consider my own cultural smugness, and insensitivity.
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