Today we are climbing the mountains in the pay-Basque. It is green and beautiful, and drizzling. I couldn't stand more than two hours with the pack-- 11 kg now-- I can't say how it got so full and heavy. So at Hentto we stopped to rest and gasp for air-- and Andy took my pack on top of his pack--- probably 44 lbs now. I am wearing Debbie's poncho, but am wet with sweat underneath it. We made it to Orisson by 12:00, ate a great meal and rested. Andy got pork chops, I had marinated pork with roasted red peppers. Now we will head over the border and over the mountain to Roncevalles. Last night we stayed just outside of St Jean on the was to San Michel--- at Atzibia- hostess Marie Claire. Beautiful solid stone home, wood floors, quiet-- only us. Wind in the mountains, the feel of the alps. We got chocolate from a chocolatiers in Bayonne, near the cathedral. Great chocolate!! We ate some for dinner. Marie Claire fed us breakfast- orange juice, coffee and bread, jam and butter. we got going by 8 am. The stint to Roncevalles is 25 km-- arduous--- "climb every mountain". The clanging sheep bells on the hillsides are grand. The view is breathtakingly beautiful. Alpine. Thank you God, Kyrie Eleison, and Andy talked about doing a documentary on Teilhard de Chardin before we slept--
He told the French young people on the beach all about Teilhard's philosophical contribution.
I kept thinking of phrases in French--- my mind is reaching into old cupboards trying to pull out these words!!!
Next morning: gruelling afternoon from Orisson over the mountains-- exhausting--- til I was ready to lie down in the mud; the knees were tortured by the down-climb in mud, and uneven path-- and it rained. We got to Roncevalles at 8 pm-- 12 hrs after starting out. I cried with hysterical relief-- and Andy was still carrying my pack on top of his own.
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